FFVII: Yuffie Kisiragi

Materia is Magic!



  • Yuffie OfficialLoops & Thread Impeccable Yarn
    • Butterscotch (yellow)
    • Deep Forest (green)
    • Stone Grey (grey)
    • Heather (beige)
    • Chocolate (brown)
    • Black
  • Lion’s Brand Vanna’s Choice Yarn
    • Mustard (dark yellow)
  • KnitPicks Shine Worsted
    • Robot (light grey) (OPTIONAL)
  • 4.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
  • 3.75 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Skills Required

  • Chain (ch)
  • Crochet in spirals
  • Crochet in rows
  • Single crochet (sc)
  • Half double crochet (hdc)
  • Double crochet (dc)
  • Increase (2 in 1)
  • Decrease (2 tog, 3 tog)
  • Popcorn stitch (pop 5)
  • Pick up stitches
  • Short rows (SR)
  • Slip stitch (sl)
  • Front loop crochet (fl)
  • Back loop crochet (bl)



Using yellow, make one basic pony with a female nose.


The sweater is made in a similar fashion as the jackets, but is closed down the belly and the collar goes all the way around. It’s not possible to remove it once it’s sewn closed. I used short rows for shaping, which I find easier than messing around with stitch heights. These are marked in the pattern (SR); just sc the number of stitches indicated, chain one, and turn your work. When doing the next full row, I tried to minimize the jog at the end of the short row by working into the side of the last short row stitch, rather than the top of it. There will be a bit of a lump, but just make sure it pokes towards the wrong side of the fabric and it will look fine.

The armholes are done the same way as Cid’s jacket. You can refer to the pictures there if you’re having trouble.

Right Side

With green, ch 15 (2 to turn).

Row 1: hdc 13 into the back of the chain (so the Vs form the bottom edge).
Row 2a: dc 1, dc 2 tog, turn
Row 3a: dc 2 tog. Cut yarn (tail only needs to be long enough for weaving in)
Without turning your work, insert hook in the last st of row 1 and ch 2 (counts as 1 dc)
Row 2b: dc 2 in same st as ch, dc 2 tog (7 "blank" sts between 2a and 2b), turn
Row 3b: dc 2 tog, dc 1, dc 3 in 1, turn
Row 4: dc 3 in 1, hdc 3, dc 2 in 1, ch 9, (pick up again in row 3a), dc 2 in 1 (19 sts)
Row 5: dc 16, dc 3 tog (17 sts)
Row 6: dc 3 tog, dc 14 (15 sts)
Row 7 (SR): sc 8, turn
Row 8: (SR) sl st 1, sc 7
Row 9: dc 12, dc 3 tog (13 sts)
Row 10: dc 2 tog, dc 11 (12 sts)
Row 11 (SR): sc 7, turn
Row 12 (SR): sl st 1, sc 6
Row 13: dc 10, dc 2 tog (11 sts)
Row 14: dc 2 tog, dc 9 (10 sts)
Row 15 (SR): sc 6, turn
Row 16 (SR): sl st 1, sc 5
Row 17: dc 8, dc 2 tog (9 sts)
Row 18: sc 9

Left Side

With wrong side of the right half of the sweater facing you and green, insert your hook into the rightmost stitch of the bottom of row 1 and ch 1. Leave a long tail so you can sew up the neck.

Row 1: sc 1 in same st as chain, sc 12 (13 sts)
Continue from row 2 of right side.
End at row 17 unless you need an extra row to make it fit. Try it on as you go.
Finish. Leave a long tail for sewing up. DO NOT sew up the back yet.
Weave in ends and sew up the neck. Try it on before finishing the neck. It’s okay it there’s a bit of a dip where the two sides meet at the top; the collar will hide this.


While the sweater technically doesn’t have sleeves, this will clean up the armholes and make them look nicer.

With right side facing you and green, start somewhere that won’t be noticeable and pick up and sc 26 sts. 9 sts from the bottoms of the chain in row 4, 5 from the front, the 7 "blank" sts, and 5 from the back. Sl st into the first st, finish and weave in ends.


With the right side of the sweater facing you and green, pick up and sc along the entire neck edge. As with the other jackets, the number of sts isn’t terribly important; just that it’s smooth. I had 26 sts.

Row 1: dc 7 (approximately ¼ of the total sts), sc 12 (approximately ½), dc 7
The next two rows will fold over.
Row 2: fl sc across
Row 3: bl dc 2, [bl dc 2 in 1, bl dc 4] x5

Left Arm

Shoulder Guard

With grey, ch 2 (1 to turn).

Row 1: sc 1
Row 2: sc 2 in 1 (2 sts)
Row 3: [sc 2 in 1] x2 (4 sts)
Row 4: sc 2 in 1, sc 2, sc 2 in 1 (6 sts)
Row 5: sc 2 in 1, sc 4, sc 2 in 1 (8 sts)
Row 6: sc 2 in 1, sc 6, sc 2 in 1 (10 sts)
Rows 7-8: sc 10
Row 9: sc 2 tog, sc 6, sc 2 tog (8 sts)
Row 10: sc 2 tog, sc 4, sc 2 tog (6 sts)
Row 11: sc 2 tog, sc 2, sc 2 tog (4 sts)
Row 12: [sc 2 tog] x 2 (2 sts)
Row 13: sc 2 tog (1 st)

Circle/Emblem Thing

Round 1: With dark yellow, sc 6 in a ring, continue in a spiral
Round 2: sc 2 in 1 around (12 sts)
Sl st to finish.
Don’t weave in the tail of the yarn from the centre. You’ll use it to sew it to the shoulder guard later.


These are a bit weird. I will do my best to explain.
With green, ch 10 (2 to turn).

Row 1: dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 1 (1 unused chain stitch.) Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: sl st 2 along the back of the fabric rather than in the actual stitches. Chain 7 (2 to turn)
Row 3: dc 1, hdc 1, sc 3, sl st 1 in the back of the fabric again, then sl st again in the unused ch st from the initial chain.

The end result should be two slightly overlapping tassels. If it doesn’t work, you can always just make two separate tassels and stitch them together.

Sew these to the back of the circle thing, then sew the circle thing to the front of the shoulder guard.


My sleeve ended up a little short because it ended up higher on her shoulder than I had meant for it to go. I suggest not cutting your yarn until the whole ensemble is sewn on to the sweater, that way you can add another row if you need to.

With beige, ch 10 (2 to turn), leaving a long tail.

Row 1: dc 8
Row 2: dc 2 in 1, dc 6, dc 2 in 1 (10 sts). At this point, I suggest sewing the sleeve to the middlish of the shoulder guard (in the back), so it’s easier to measure.
Row 3: dc 10
Row 4: dc 2 in 1, dc 8, dc 2 in 1 (12 sts)
Row 5-12: dc 12
Depending on where you end up placing the sleeve on the sweater, you can do more rows here if you need to. Or fewer.

At this point, stitch the whole shoulder guard ensemble onto the left side of the sweater in a spot that looks good. Only stitch the corners of the shoulder guard down so it can curve outward. Now you can sew up the back and neck of the sweater.


Grey Thingamabob on the Sleeve

(Thank you, Nomura, for your entirely logical designs.)

Round 1: With grey, sc 6 in a ring, continue in a spiral.
Round 2: bl sc 6
Round 3: sc 6
Finish. Stitch the thingamabob to the centre of the sleeve near the bottom.

Shoes (make 2)

Round 1: With dark yellow, dc 12 in a ring, continue in a spiral.
Round 2: [dc 2 in 1] around (24 sts)
Round 3: [sc 2 in 1, sc 2] around (32 sts)
Round 4: bl sc 32
Round 5: [dc 2 tog, dc 6] around (28 sts)
Round 6-7: dc 28

With beige, pick the front of the shoe and "embroider" a shoelace onto the shoe. I cut a length of yarn and used two darning needles like a pro.

Left Leg Thing

Round 1 is the top.

With grey, chain 23 and join in a circle.
Round 1: [sc 2 in 1, sc 10] x2 (24 sts)
Round 2: [dc 3, pop 5] x6 (24 sts)
Round 3: sc around

Right Arm Thing

Upper Arm

Right sideWith grey, chain 24 and join in a circle.
Round 1: dc 23

Lower Arm

With grey, chain 25 and join in a circle.
Round 1: dc 24, sl st
If you’re kind of incompetent at joining in circles like me, sl st a ways towards the front so you can hide the joint in the back.
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 6, ch 1 to turn
Row 3: sc 7
Flip it upside down and insert your hook in the bottom, opposite the 7 sts.
Row 1: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc 6, ch 1 to turn
Row 2: sc 7


With black, ch 7 (1 to turn).
Row 1-2: sc 6
Sl st 1 down the side (so you’re in between the two rows), and chain 30-ish sts. Hold it up to her head to measure that it’s long enough. Remember that you need to be able to tie it as well. Cut the yarn and finish.
Insert your hook in the other side of the 6 sts, opposite the chain, and chain another 30 sts.

With light grey and a smaller hook (I used 3.75 mm. The Shine Worsted is a slightly lighter weight yarn, but mostly I used it because it was shiny), ch 8 (2 to turn).
Row 1: hdc 6.
Finish, leaving a longer tail at one end. With the tail, sew the grey rectangle to the centre of the black rectangle. Weave in the ends and tie it around her forehead. I suggest waiting until you’ve got the headband on to cut and style her hair.

Mane & Tail

Yuffie’s mane and tail are made with brown. I don’t know how to style a mane bob, so I just did whatever, keeping it fairly short.


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